An Adventure-Filled Girls' Weekend in Carmarthenshire
The air was filled with the scent of hand-poured candles as we stepped into Little Welsh Dresser, one of Llandeilo's charming arts and crafts shops. This vibrant Welsh market town is a creative hub, known for its famous Dinefwr wool blankets and an array of galleries and antique stores. As we wandered, our eyes were drawn to the handmade cards and mugs, each bearing the unique Welsh words. One particular word caught our attention: 'Cwtch'. Pronounced 'kutch', it conveys a sense of warmth and belonging, a feeling that perfectly encapsulated our weekend adventure.
My friend, Anna, and I had embarked on a journey to experience Discover Carmarthenshire's new 'The Sisterhood' breaks, an initiative catering to women seeking more from their weekends than the usual prosecco-fueled girlie getaways. The website (https://www.discovercarmarthenshire.com/explore/the-sisterhood-the-ultimate-girls-getaway/) offers curated stays, but groups of any size can customize their trip by choosing from west, central, or coastal Carmarthenshire. Accommodation options range from barns to glamping pods, and activities are led by Wild Kin, a collective of potters, painters, coastal foragers, horse whisperers, walking guides, makers, and massage therapists.
We opted for Ardderfin Farmhouse, a rustic stone cottage near Carmarthen, reminiscent of the cottage in the film 'The Holiday'. After settling in, we ventured into town for dinner at New Curiosity (http://www.thenewcuriosity.co.uk/), a seasonal-menu restaurant run by Rachel Williams and her husband-chef, Daniel. The community-oriented atmosphere, where everyone seemed to know each other, added to the warmth of the place. I savored a perfectly pink Welsh sirloin, a testament to the town's culinary delights.
On Saturday, we met Yoka Kilkelly, the 'Dutch potter on the hill', at her Siramik (https://siramik.co.uk/) studio, nestled on a sheep farm. Inside, the slate walls were adorned with clay, and we began the process of wedging, kneading the clay to soften it and ensure a consistent texture. Yoka's expertise and humor made the task manageable, and we soon crafted mugs and bowls, adding glazes later. The experience was a mindful practice, allowing us to feel present and connected to the clay.
In the afternoon, we explored Llansteffan, strolling along the sands of the Tywi estuary. The 800-year-old Llansteffan Castle loomed atop a hill, its crenelated shadow casting a silhouette against the pinkening sunset. Anna, an avid birder, eagerly scanned for curlews and egrets, camera in hand. This was a rare opportunity to witness her passion in action.
Back at Ardderfin Farmhouse, Lowri Johnston, a yoga teacher and organic flower farmer (https://www.blodaucaredig.com/), awaited us. She guided us through a gentle yoga session in the living room, followed by a willow wreath-making session. Using materials foraged from her farm, including ivy, eucalyptus, pine cones, and dried dahlias, Lowri taught us to shape the willow into a circle, infusing the activity with a sense of connection to the seasons and the land. The Welsh word for sisterhood, 'chwaeroliaeth', meaning 'sisters together', resonated deeply with Lowri's philosophy.
As the weekend progressed, we indulged in a gourmet picnic, savoring homemade meatballs and ginger cake with toffee sauce, delivered by Wright’s Food (https://shop.wrightsfood.co.uk/). We reminisced about the day's activities, fueled by the warmth of the fire and the comfort of deep sofas. The embering wood hissed and crackled as we talked into the wee hours, creating a cozy atmosphere.
On Sunday, the rain accompanied us to Newcastle Emlyn, where we met Elen Bowen, a primary school teacher turned jeweler (https://www.elenbowen.co.uk/). She runs silver and gold jewelry-making workshops from her home, a passion she discovered in 2023 after having twin girls and contemplating a career change. Elen's Instagram page took off, and this year, she crafted the crown for the best story writer at the National Eisteddfod, Wales' largest festival celebrating literature, music, and arts. Anna and I each created a bracelet and a ring, respectively, under Elen's guidance, hammering, soldering, and polishing our pieces. We shared a bowlful of her homemade cawl, a Welsh stew, as we bid farewell to each other.
As we left, the mug with the word 'Cwtch' printed on it came to mind. It represented not just a hug but a sense of being embraced by the creativity and warmth of the women we had met. This weekend, crafted with fun, food, and a deeper connection, was the perfect embodiment of the Sisterhood Campaign (https://www.discovercarmarthenshire.com/explore/the-sisterhood-the-ultimate-girls-getaway/) provided by Discover Carmarthenshire.
